Spring/Summer 2013 trends from Milan and Paris

Menswear by on 10 July 2012

The heat has accompanied the days of the two most important fashion weeks in the world dedicated to menswear. Milan and Paris fashion weeks are  very different from each other: the made in italy has always been characterised by the search for a balance between the needs of the market and the creativity, on the other hand the French fashion trends are the ones who dare but sometimes end up repeating something that is no longer news. The colourful palette for the new season (maybe to revive the difficult economic situation) has played a key role on the catwalks: Salvatore Ferragamo has moved away from its usual composed image, opting the color block: orange trench coats combined with yellow trousers and vice versa, water green blazers (single or double breasted) and blue trousers, while for the evening, Ferragamo chose the white. Gucci shows the slim fit figured tinted in mustard, orange, green apple, lobster, electric blue and sugar, seen also in the ties worn over white shirts. Burberry Prorsum has instead proposed a man dressed in lime, blue, fuchsia metallic fabrics, and in the bomber jacket there is the contrast of these colours in the sleeves and body. In Paris, Dries van Noten and Commes des Garcons focused their collection taking inpirations from the old camouflage prints, John Galliano opts for the macro-check and floral designs, while in Milan the Moschino signature appears on shirts and jackets printed with packages of detergent and metallic cans. Ports 1961 shows print in coloured and nude bubbles.  The silk fabric is often the true protagonist: in the jackets and accessories as seen in Ermenegildo Zegna, in evening gowns which become raincoats at Versace, in striped  trousers at Ann Demeulemeester’s. The footwear is the link between France and Italy: the sandal is seen at Belstaff, Lanvin, even Miuccia Prada sually different from the others, chose the sandal to be worn with blue socks. Let’s hope it does not become ridiculous to be seen in the streets in summer! Corneliani and Giorgio Armani are showing a relaxed elegance, far from formalisms, made of soft volumes, subtle fabrics, and trousers with pleats. Fabrics chosen by Corneliani are flax and nappa perforated leather, in grays and browns; on the other hand Giorgio Armani features hand woven fabrics in micro prints and leather worked giving the seersucker effect, conferring a sense of dimensionality to the traditional blue ink.

The Pal Zileri collection shown at the new showroom in Corso Matteotti focuses in the sartorial contruction: the shoulders are soft, the revers slightly slipped off, trousers slim fit in the leg. Sartorial does not only mean wise construction, but also attention to fabrics, all naturals such as wools, silks, linens, ideals for summer.

Lightness and comfort are also the key elements in the Concept collection by Pal Zileri. The inspiration comes from the famous movie “il postino”, infact the garments have a Mediterranean character, a bit like in the sequence in which Massimo Troisi records the sounds of the sea, the noise of the fishermen that pull the nets, the reawakening of nature at dawn and his pardon at sunset to send the tape to the poet Neruda. The blue, beige, and the light gray on pure or mixed cottons are never full, but dusty; the jackets are deconstructed , the fabrics are lights and breathable.

 

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